A Very Simple Guide to China 08

Welcome to Zhong Guo, the Middle Kingdom! China is not anything like you think it is. It can be both far worse, and far more spectacular. It is a place that acts like a mirror to challenge your sensibilities and grind you mercilessly up against your assumptions and beliefs. It is a fantastic place to study health and medicine, as patients use Traditional Chinese Medicine for conditions we would rarely see in the West.

This is a very simple guide to help prepare you for the journey, give you a few ideas about what to expect, how to be safe, and have the time of your life studying our medicine in the place it was born.

Travel Documents

Passport and Visa:

You will need a valid passport with at least 6 months left on it, and a Chinese travel visa to enter China.

1. Passport: United States Passports take between 10-12 weeks to obtain, and perhaps longer, but can be expedited at additional cost. If you do not already have a passport, please get started on this right away.

For information about how to obtain a passport, see:

http://travel.state.gov/passport/passport_1738.html

2. Chinese Visa: Fill out the Visa Application form (Q1) and include one black and white or colored visa photo. Chinese visas cost $130 per person. Regular processing time for visas is 4 working days, but can be expedited for a $30 fee. Each entry allows you 30 days within the country, so if you plan to stay in China for longer than 30 days you will need a double entry visa. 

For information about how to obtain a Chinese travel visa:

http://www.china-embassy.org/chn/hzqz/zgqz/P020070611087242661716.pdf

3. Travel Insurance. Travel insurance is a required for this program. You may choose your own provider. Please email or mail Shannon a copy of your provider carrier, policy and coverage at kang33@gmail.com.

Health

Of course, staying healthy can be tricky when traveling. If you have some specific medicines you need be sure to bring them, and perhaps bring a little extra.

It is always good to have a small tube of anti-bacterial ointment on hand in case of scrapes/cuts. Plus a few Band-Aids. If you have a sensitive stomach, you may consider bringing your favorite remedy for diarrhea/nausea, headaches, and melatonin to help you adjust to the time difference. If you wear contacts or glasses you might want to bring an extra pair. It is a good idea to update your tetanus, and to be vaccinated against Hep A.

If you get sick and want to see a Chinese doctor, you are in luck! The good news

is that health care costs are way cheaper in Asia, and there is also ample western style health care that caters to westerners.

Raw herbs are readily available, and many herb stores will cook them up for you if needed.  If there are patent formulas you know and love, bring ‘em.

I recommend carrying traveling medical insurance while out of the country. You may check to see if your health insurance company provides this.

What to bring

First of all, think about packing light. Please plan to check only one bag to China. Chinese airlines only allow you to check in one bag weighing 20kg at most for flights within China. We will be traveling on airlines, trains and private busses, so the less you schlep the easier it will be for you. A roller suitcase may be easiest to carry.

For our trip to the Yellow Mountain we will only carry our daypacks with us, and leave the larger suitcases at the bottom of the mountain. So also bring a backpack/daypack for that purpose. Also, bring a bathing suit as we will visit the hot springs on the Yellow Mountain.

If you plan to buy souvenirs and gifts in China (and I recommend you do!) you can always buy a cheap suitcase for 10-15 USD to get you home with all your loot. 

Clothing

The temperature in China will likely be warm in the daytime, and cooler at night, most likely in the 60-70 degree range. Some cities may be slightly more humid than D.C. There is a chance of rain, but umbrellas are readily available in China and cost about 2-3 dollars.

I would recommend 2-3 nicer outfits that would be appropriate for hospital visits.  We will also have a few fancier meals, and for the most part the Chinese dress more formally than we do.

You may want to bring a light fleece or jacket for our trip to the Yellow Mountain, as the temperatures will be cooler and perhaps slightly windy at the higher altitude. Its recommended we wake before the sunrise on the days there, to watch the clouds become awash with color, in the aptly named Sea of Clouds (it’s spectacular, really!!). Here is a good link to acquaint you with the Yellow Mountain http://huangshanguide.com/english.htm

There is the opportunity to do laundry at the hotels.

Shoes

Bring comfortable shoes. Sandals and tevas are fine. Do bring something closed toed as well and something nicer for our hospital visits. We will be hiking on the Yellow Mountain (up and down concrete paths and stairs) so bring something comfortable for that.  China is a very dusty place and public streets are far dirtier than they are in the U.S. However, that does give you an excellent reason to have your feet washed and massaged after a long day of travels.

Toiletries

These can be purchased all over China, so you don’t need to pack too heavily here. You can buy brands like Crest, Gillette, Head and Shoulders, Dove, etc, but if there is something else you prefer, bring it. Deodorant however is much harder to find. You can also easily buy OB tampons and pads in China. I also recommend brings some wet wipes and a bottle of hand sanitizer to clean your hands with.

Electronics

Definitely bring your camera. China is tremendously picturesque. Kodak film is readily available, as are quality batteries. You may want to bring an extra memory card if you have a digital camera. China runs on 220v power, so you will need an adaptor if you plan to bring a charger for any of your electronics. Hair driers are usually provided in Chinese hotels.

All hotels will have business centers where you can 
            check email .

Daily life in China

Outlook and attitude

“I don’t think we are in Kansas anymore, Toto.”

Being a foreigner in China is an experience that is filled with constant surprise. Things that take 20 minutes at home could take half a day in China. Do expect to move slower, and for some things to take more time than they do in the states. This is just part of the culture shock which, if you allow it to, will open your eyes in deeply profound ways.

Sometimes a foreigner in China is more of a tourist attraction than the tourist attraction you are visiting. People are wonderfully welcoming and curious so expect many stares, photos of yourself with Chinese tourists and ample requests to talk with locals. Rest assured this will not be your average vacation.

China has a way of wearing you down to the bone, and at the same time giving you moments of exhilarating delight. If you are looking for consistency and order, then you may find frustration at every turn, but if you come with a sense of adventure, and more importantly curiosity, you will be richly rewarded with moments of pure joy and memories that will last a lifetime.

Toilets

Western toilets with toilet paper are available in the hotels we stay at and in many of the restaurants we will visit. However, it is always a good idea to carry your own toilet paper/tissues with you at all times. Little packages of tissues are easily available so you don’t need to bring this from home. Soap in public restrooms is in short supply; you may want to bring wet-wipes or a small bottle of hand sanitizer

We may encounter some squat toilets in the less touristy areas, and they are much easier to use than they appear to be. Just have a sense of humor, and remember that there is always a good (at least in retrospect) bathroom story on any trip to China.

Eating

Food in China is amazing, plentiful and there is a tremendous variety of food available. Dining is China is a delightful adventure, as each city has its special dish or local flavor. All meals will be provided for you on this trip, and we will take peoples preferences into account when ordering, so please let us know in advance of any allergies or foods to be mindful of.

If you have any strict dietary guidelines, such as keeping kosher, or adhering to a strict vegan or vegetarian diet this may be a very difficult trip for you. Chinese people, at least on the mainland don’t really understand how people could not choose to eat meat. Even if you learn the phrase for “I don’t eat meat” or “please don’t put any meat in my food”, it is likely you will still end up with animal in your meal, as meat sometimes just means beef…and pork is not beef. (I learned this the hard way many years ago).

If cannot use chopsticks, please consider bringing a  
            fork.

Money

The currency of China is the RMB (ren min bi), and you currently get 7.05 RMB for 1 dollar.

No one takes checks in China. Places that accept credit cards are few and far between, and they generally tack on an extra 3% to cover their fees. In China, cash is king. I recommend getting a cloth money belt to wear under your clothes, especially for travel through crowded areas like train stations, markets, airports etc. It is a good place to keep your passport when you are in transit as well.

So do be careful with all that wad of cash you will no doubt be carrying around. It is recommended that you do not keep all your cash in one place on your person, just in case your pocket does get lightened.

We will have an opportunity to change money upon arrival at the Beijing airport, and also at our hotels. If you bring hundred dollar bills, make sure they are clean, crisp and unmarked, otherwise banks will not exchange them for you. Another option would be to bring traveler’s checks, which can also be easily exchanged. A third option would be to bring your ATM debit card and use it to withdraw money. ATM’s are plentiful all over China, and an easy way to access cash. So long as your debit card has a symbol for the PLUS network on it, you should be good to go. However, your bank may charge a fee in addition to the ATM fee for taking out money. For purposes of both security and ease I would recommend brining a combination of  cash, travelers check and your ATM card.

Also, be sure to contact your bank and credit card companies to let them know you will be in China for a month!  Otherwise, they just might think your credit card or ATM card was stolen and flown to China for a vacation without you. Having your card shut down for “possible fraud” is no fun in China.

Crime

Crime against foreigners is pretty rare, and violent crime in China is extremely rare. In general the streets in China tend to be much safer than those in the USA. That being said, do keep a close watch on your money and personal possessions. Like any large city, pick pocketing does occur in tourist areas.

Please bring a photocopy of your passport and Chinese visa, just in case.

You can check out the State Departments website for additional information:
http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/cis/cis_1089.html

Pollution

Is it really as polluted there as I’ve heard? Yes. And if you are really sensitive to it, then you can bring a mask and wear it when on the street. Facemasks are a common sight in Asia. It usually means the person has cold, and the masks are worn to help prevent germs from spreading. However, China is working hard to combat pollution, especially with the approaching Olympics and increased international pressure on environmental issues.

Nightlife

Bars, nightclubs, discos, karaoke lounges are all over the place. Rest assured you will be well entertained.

Visiting night markets is one of my favorite activities. Imagine streets full of noise, snacks, chachkas, souvenirs, fake antiques, games, drinks, families, scooters, clothes, and street foods. Night markets are a particular kind of Chinese nightlife that is definitely worth throwing yourself into the middle of. But, do watch your pockets!

Another personal favorite thing to do in the evenings is to visit a place for Chinese foot massage or Tuina body massage, Services cost about 1/10 of what they do in the states, so prepare to be pampered, as it's a very enjoyable way to spend a few hours after a long day of touring the city.

Shopping

“Looka looka, cheapu cheapu for you!”

Shopping in China is a blast. Pretty much everything is bargained for. If you are buying clothes, check the seams and stitching. Unless you are shopping in a fancy mall, anything with a brand name label is most likely counterfeit. Still, a gore-tex jacket for USD$12 might not be a bad deal, if it gets you through a couple years.

Buyer Beware: despite recent WTO crackdowns on pirated goods, there are still a number of pirated DVD’s for sale—some movies that have not even been released in the States yet. DVDs usually go for about 1-2 USD. Some don’t work very well and some are fine.

As for antiques: You will hear it all the time. Ming dynasty, Qing dynasty, old old. Yeah, right. The deal is that the KMT slipped away with most of the treasure from the mainland when they ran for their lives in 1949. And much of it is in the Palace Museum in Taipei. (which in itself is worth a visit)  As fate would have it, it was a prophetic move that the KMT made off with the goods, as it would likely have been destroyed or damaged in the Cultural Revolution. That being said, there is some very cool stuff that would look great in your office, or make nice gifts for loved ones back home. Just remember you are bargaining for “antiques made to order.” Use a good sense of humor, cut the quoted price in half and bargain like a demon!

Tea

The tea universe in China goes from the cab driver’s mayonnaise jar filled with what appears to be pond water, to little shops where you can sample and buy, to warehouse districts where the tiny shops all have tea lining the wall like hunting trophies. Hangzhou is one of the most famous places for Longjing (dragon well) tea in China, and you will be able to find many different varieties of pu’er, oolong, jasmine, flower, tie guan yin and local varieties of tea.

Coffee

Back in the day I would make a special trip across Beijing to have a cup of coffee in the only place that sold it. Today coffee—Starbucks—is all over China so you needn’t worry about getting your “fix” if that is a concern.

Cell phones and Communications

Shannon will provide you with her China cell number where people can leave an emergency message for you if needed

There are international calling cards that also can be bought all over town, these give you access to inexpensive long distance service through any local telephone.

Internet access is also widely available.

You will be provided with a schedule, and phone numbers for our hotels once we get to China

Tipping

There is no such thing in China. Well, perhaps in some fancy Western hotels that cater to foreigners add a service fee to the bills, but when it comes to the daily life there is no tipping. If you try to tip the wait staff at restaurants, cabbies, and service people at the hotel they will just get confused.

Expenses that are covered in your trip:

• Meals:  We will provide all meals on your trip. China is a culinary wonderland and it is best to eat in a group, so as to have the opportunity to sample numerous dishes. We will sample the local specialties in each city we visit.
• Hotels: We will be staying in 4 star hotels.
• Entrance fees to the tourist sites
• Transportation within China: Train, airplane and the private bus trips are all included.

Expenses that are not covered in your trip:

• Any minibar or phone fees or internet usage at the hotel 
• Excess or overweight baggage fees
• Travel insurance
• Laundry expenses
• Any taxi or subway trips you take in the evening
• Personal spending money for gifts and souvenirs.

Phrases to know

Ni hao: Hello

Zai Jian: Good Bye

Xie Xie: Thank you

Man man lai Chinese people say this ALL the time. It means, “don’t be in hurry”, “take your time”, “things come in their own time”, this is an especially useful phrase to repeat to yourself as mantra when studying Chinese medicine.

Mei guan xi It does not matter.

Bu dong Don’t understand

Bu yao! No, I don’t want it.

Zhen de bu yao!! Seriously, I don’t want it.

Yï dian dou bu yao!!! No really, I’m completely not interested in the slightest bit.

Tai gui le Too expensive!

Pian yi dian Come on, a little cheaper.

Hao chi Tasty!

Ng! A sound of “agreement”, it is grunting sound that comes from the back of the throat.

A list of books you might want to read

Lonely Planet China—an overview of tourist sites, historical background, and culture

Coming Home Crazy—Bill Holm—foreigners experience in China in the Mid 80s

Waiting—Hajin—Chinese fiction about the Cultural Revolution

In the Pond—Ha Jin— Chinese fiction about the Cultural Revolution

The Bridegroom—Ha Jin— Chinese fiction about the Cultural Revolution

Iron and Silk—Mark Salzman—Foreign Martial Artist in China in the 1980s

Falling Leaves—Adeline Yen Mah—personal experience of the Cultural Revolution

Becoming Madame Mao—Anchee Min—Story of the rise and fall of Mao’s Wife

Wild Swans—Jung Chang—3 generations of women in China in the 20^th Century

Mao: The Unknown Story—Jung Chang and Jon Halliday—Disputes the myth of Mao

Chinese Lessons—Pomfret—Story of 5 literati from the Cultural Revolution to today

River Town—Peter Hessler—experience teaching English in rural China

Some Good Movies about China

Devil at the Doorstep—about the Japanese invasion

Farewell my Concubine—fall of bourgeois China after the revolution

Judo—Life during the Cultural Revolution

Hero—A martial arts tale of love and deception

To Live—Follows a family from pre-1949 through the Cultural Revolution

Raise the Red Lantern—the story of a concubine during the warlord time of China.

The Last Emperor—recounts the last years of the Qing Dynasty

Not one Less—about the travails of Chinese peasants

Beijing Bicycle—story of a bike messenger whose bike is stolen

Preparing for clinic portion of the trip (week 3)

What to bring

Dress as you would in your clinic

White lab coat

Curiosity

An open mind

How to prepare